North Rim - Capes of the Canyon
Route Guide
Location
Grand Canyon - North Rim, Arizona, USA
Number of Capes
27 Grand Canyon Viewpoints
Days to Ride
12 - 16 Days
Physical Difficulty*
7/10
Seasons
Best: May 15** - June
Best: September - Mid Oct.
Length
560 Miles
Technical Difficulty*
6/10
Primary Surfaces*
Rough Gravel
4x4 Roads
Elevation Gain
40,670 Feet
Tire Size
Recommended: 2.3"-2.8"
*Based on Bikepacking Roots’ Route Rating Scale (More info found under "Route Difficulty, Surface Conditions, and Direction to Ride”)
**Bicycles prohibited on North Rim Grand Canyon NP roads from Dec. 1 until May 15. You can start the route prior to May 15 as it's 350 miles before you'll reach the Park boundary, but be sure not to enter the roads of Grand Canyon NP before that date.
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Route Stats
Route Overview
Map and GPX
Alerts and Closures
Route Design Philosophy and Vision
Blogged Trip Reports
Route Passages
Route Description
Route Difficulty, Surface Conditions, and Direction to Ride
When to Ride (Temperature + Climate)
North Rim vs. South Rim
Capes Connectors
Ecoregions and Landscape
Where Bikes Are Allowed and Not Allowed
Native Nations and This Land
Leave No Trace and Bikepacking Ethics for the Colorado Plateau
Water Sources
Camping
Food and Resupplying
Sample Route Itinerary
Fees and Permits
Getting to the Start
Parking
Additional Important Information
Route Finishers
Other Routes in the Area
Acknowledgments
Social Media and Route Updates
Stickers
2. North Rim COTC Overview
The North Rim Capes of the Canyon takes bikepackers from the desert base of Vermilion Cliffs National Monument to the subalpine meadows and sprawling aspen forests of the Kaibab Plateau. In-between, it weaves a circumference dirt tour of North Rim viewpoints along the edge of Grand Canyon National Park. Capes include Vermilion Cliffs, Gunsight, Jumpup, Sowats, Thunder River, Crazy Jug, Monument, Parissawampitts, Fence, Locust, North Timp, Timp, Fire, Swamp, Point Sublime, Crystal Canyon, Bright Angel, Point Imperial, Vista Encantada, Roosevelt, Walhalla Overlook, Angel's Window, Cape Royal, Nankoweap/Saddle Mountain, Marble Viewpoint, East Rim, and Dog. Look forward to multiple views of the Esplanade along the Kanab Creek Wilderness, the possibility of sleeping in old Forest Service cabins at Jumpup and Big Springs, riding through Coyote Valley beside the Paria Plateau, seeing high-altitude meadows cupped by conifers, and absorbing views of the Grand Canyon along remote dirt roads.
The goal of the route is to hit every bike-legal track that takes riders to views of the Grand Canyon along the North Rim on the Kaibab Plateau. Capes of the Canyon provides an additional tour of the Colorado Plateau by way of an extensive network of forest service roads that wind through ponderosas, spruce, firs, aspen, sage, tablelands, and plateaus in and near the Baaj Nwaavjo I'tah Kukveni National Monument and the Kaibab National Forest. This route offers remote high-country riding down seldom-visited roads, a chance to bike singletrack along the Grand Canyon at Rainbow Rim, multiple opportunities for dispersed camping at the rim edge, sections of the Arizona Trail, and, for those who store their bike on top, the chance to hike down into the inner gorge at notable trailheads within Grand Canyon National Park.
3. Map and GPX
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Purple = Improved Dirt Surface (Frequently Maintained, Usually Smoother)
Red = Rugged Dirt Surface (Infrequently Maintained, Typically Rougher/Rockier)
Brown = Primitive Dirt Surface (Rarely/Never Maintained, Particularly Rocky/Rutted/Eroded)
Black = Singletrack
Blue = Vehicular Pavement
Green = Dirt Multi-Use Path
4. Alerts and Closures
The Southwest is a dynamic region. The Capes of the Canyon is subject to wildfires, flash floods, extreme heat, blizzards, monsoon storms, and death mud. Grand Canyon National Park, Kaibab National Forest, and the Bureau of Land Management are the main land management agencies who may issues closures for access. BEFORE you ride, make sure you check EACH of the links below to see if important alerts or closures will affect your riding of the established routes. Be prepared to use maps to find alternates should a sudden change in route conditions occur.
Good physical maps for the region can be accessed or purchased below:
5. Route Design Philosophy and Vision
This route was not designed to be a straight point-to-point endeavor. Instead, it weaves, spiderwebs, and wraps around the famously sought and the little seen aspects of the Grand Canyon rim region. When I ride, I ride for topophilia - a love of place. I ride to know an area's biodiversity, to breathe its odors, to see its beautiful niches, and to appreciate its detail. This route represents that approach.
A "cape" in geography refers to a high point of land that extends into a river, lake, or ocean. As unusual a comparison as it may seem, I often feel the Grand Canyon is analogized best as where ocean meets land: the rims swell as elevated crests before plunging into a volume of space a mile deep. The canyon is a sank range, an inverse mountain. When you ride to the capes on this route, you'll stand on juts of land protruding into geological space. The primary goal of the Capes of the Canyon is to take riders to notable rim overlooks of the inner Grand Canyon gorge. Your goal as the rider is to hit each one and soak them in. Sure, you can cut off time and distance by eliminating some of the spokes on the circumference of this ride, but know that you'll be missing some singularly interesting landscapes, ecosystems, history, culture, and views.
Ride the spokes.
6. Blogged Trip Reports
These are my blogged trip reports and photos from past rides of the route.
7. Route Passages
Passage 1: Jacob Lake
Passage 2: Vermilion Cliffs
Passage 3: Buckskin Mountains
Passage 4: Gunsight
Passage 5: Big Springs
Passage 6: Jumpup
Passage 7: Sowats and Thunder River
Passage 8: Crazy Jug
Passage 9: Rainbow Rim
Passage 10: Dry Park
Passage 11: Fire and Swamp
Passage 12: Point Sublime
Passage 13: Cape Royal
Passage 14: East Rim
Passage 15: Demotte and Dog
Passage 16: Spine of the Kaibab
The North Rim COTC can be broken up into a series of Passages.
Passages are loops that provide cyclists the opportunity to section-ride, overnight, or day ride portions of the route.
Riders seeking loops providing overnighter/weekend trips on the Capes of the Canyon should check out the Grand Canyon Overnighter routes.
8. Route Description
Start your ride at the Murray Lake Trailhead for the Arizona Trail just south of Jacob Lake up on the northern end of the Kaibab Plateau. Leave your vehicle at the trailhead or at nearby Jacob Lake Inn for long-term parking (see the “23. Parking” section below for more information). Start by riding through the dense ponderosa woodlands on beautiful dirt roads that weave a slight descent towards the Kaibab Plateau dropoff. FR 205 is smooth and gentle as it weaves down through aspen-filled Orderville Canyon to intersect with paved Highway 89A. Highway 89A is curvy and has little shoulder, so start early in the morning for less traffic and bring your flashing lights. It's a thrilling 11.5 mile descent that loses over 2000 feet and brings you to Cape 1: Vermilion Cliffs. This red rock layer emerges as a massive sanguine wall stretching across the arid grasslands of House Rock Valley. Stop at the overlook for photos, and then continue your descent.
At the bottom of the Kaibab Plateau, turn left onto unpaved House Rock Valley Road to cross into the Baaj Nwaavjo I'tah Kukveni/Ancestral Footprints of the Grand Canyon National Monument. This National Monument abuts Vermilion Cliffs National Monument that will appear before you as a stunning sanguine wall stretching endlessly across the arid grasslands of House Rock Valley. House Rock Road carries you into Coyote Valley adjacent to the legendary Paria Plateau now sitting to your right. As the valley closes up, you'll arrive at the Condor Viewing Site managed by The Peregrine Fund. Stop and look through the binoculars at the whitewash along the cliffs for roosting sites of the very endangered California Condor. The birds are released here each September, and many come to permanently frequent the shear rock faces of Marble Canyon and Vermilion Cliffs. The California Condor is the largest bird in North America; reintroduction efforts in the area have been successful for these large carrion-eaters.
Continue to steadily climb until the Paria Plateau evens out with you to your east. Intricate, colorful, and gorgeous rock formations will begin to pour out of the sand in large swirling pyramids and butte chunks such as Coyote Buttes and The Wave (both require permits to view). At Stateline Campground you can grab a campsite, see the northern terminus of the Arizona Trail, and then cross into Utah. Continue on as the wall of vibrant orange, reds, ochres, and purples to your right become the southern boundaries of Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument and its famous Cockscomb.
At Buckskin Gulch Trailhead, you'll swing left and climb up an old dirt road into the Buckskin Mountains before turning south and reentering Arizona. Continue south cycling on top of the mountains/plateaus until you reach Winter Road and swing west where the tiered colored faces of the Grand Staircase take up your view. The desertscape here can be quite exposed so make sure you fill up at all Wildlife Tanks you come across. The juniper, sage, and grasslands will begin to point towards Highway 89A where you join it to arrive at Fredonia, AZ. Fredonia offers some convenience store resupplies, water, camping, and lodging. Swing south on FR 22 just outside town to begin a long climb back up towards the Kaibab Plateau that cuts across BLM land. The road here is paved but infrequently used by vehicles so expect only a small amount of traffic.
A new cape awaits for riders as you reenter the Baaj Nwaavjo I'tah Kukveni National Monument and peel off into the desert on a dirt road down to Gunsight Point. The route parallels the eastern edge of Kanab Creek and provides a viewpoint straight down the Kanab Creek Wilderness. After retracing, you'll jump back on pavement to enter the Kaibab National Forest. You will come to an intersection and turn left on dirt for a ride up geologically gorgeous Warm Springs Road to Jacob Lake where opportunities for lodging, camping, a general store, and restaurants await. Grab some famous cookies from Jacob Lake Inn, check out the Kaibab Plateau Visitor Center, and look around at the Kaibab Squirrel Area.
Head south on FR 282 past Jacob Lake and its historic ranger station through thickening ponderosa and grassy meadows. Aspen immediately pop up as you gain elevation and ride through beautiful dense forest. A side-ride takes you to Jacob Lake Lookout Tower and views of the surrounding Kaibab Plateau. Back on route, you'll pass through more meadows and ample dispersed camping before swinging a right to descend down Castle Canyon. Another side-ride takes you out to Big Springs Lookout Tower before continuing back down Castle Canyon to intersect with FR 22. At the bottom of the descent, make sure to stop at Castle Spring and check out the large cave where the spring originates. Once on FR 22, head north on this well-maintained gravel road that brings you to the most reliable water source on the Kaibab Plateau: Big Springs. Big Springs is a gushing high-quality water source that careens down the side of a cliff near a USFS service site and cabins. When the USFS cabins are open for rental, plan to get reservations ahead of time and stay for a night to enjoy the showers, water, and common rec center/kitchen. If you're just passing through, fill up water from a spigot found outside the fence of the USFS site before continuing on.
Continue a gradual descent on FR 22, eventually swinging a west on a decline out to juniper-pinyon plateaus along a sliver of road winding between the Kanab Creek Wilderness with the plunge of Jumpup Canyon to your left. After hitting Jumpup Point, retrace your route back to a turn at the Jumpup Divide that descends to Jumpup Cabin (USFS rental by reservation only). Get ready for a big climb up Pine Hollow to FR 427 where a turn south takes bikepackers towards the mouth of Big Sowats Canyon. At an intersection with FR 233, turn right for a one-way trip out to Sowats Point along Kwagnut Hollow for a view of the sprawling Esplanade shelf. Several Wildlife Tanks can be found in the area for a water fill-up. Retrace your route and then head south out to Thunder River Trailhead at Indian Hollow with views of Deer Creek Canyon opening up in front of you. Retrace, head south, and reach Crazy Jug Point and Monument Point - the former is an epic place to disperse camp along the rim of the Grand Canyon with southerly views of the Tapeats Amphitheater.
Swing into the Kaibab National Forest where a significant steep climb carries you above Crazy Jug's perch on the rim and then turns into the forest. It's miles of idyllic riding under boughs of montane timber before a ride down Parissawampitts Spring for a seasonal water resupply. With water replenished, dirt road FR 214 leads you out to the only mountain bike singletrack along the edge of the Grand Canyon at Rainbow Rim. Jump onto its northern terminus at Parissawampitts Point and start a repeated meander inland along side-canyons that turn and veer back out to points, capes, and stunning views of the heart of Grand Canyon National Park. After the southern terminus at Timp Point, head inland from the rim edge towards the interior of the Kaibab Plateau. Climb elevation riding up FR 206 through Quaking Aspen Canyon (grab some water at Quaking Aspen Spring) that joins FR 226 south of Dry Park. Enjoy the high elevation meadows of Dry Park before turning on FR 206 once more and heading southward up a big climb.
Out of the meadows and into the forest, the climb takes you to the highest elevations on the route at 9200 feet. Stop for a side-ride to Dry Park Lookout where a large fire tower provides views over the dry pastures and woodlands. Return to climbing where ponderosas quickly fall away to spruce, aspen, and firs as you ride high on ridges overlooking the subalpine meadows of Demotte Park. Take a side road down to the food resupply at North Rim Country Store, DeMotte Campground, and Kaibab Lodge. The campground is set back in the aspen and has running water. Kaibab Lodge has cabins, rooms, and meals in their restaurant. North Rim Country Store has the camping food essentials and a coffee/food truck. Now resupplied, ride along the massive meadows that fill with mule deer and bison. Climb up a ridge and start a subalpine ride through unbelievable groves of aspen that turn ember and yellow come autumn.
You'll head downhill and out towards Fire Point and your first entrance into Grand Canyon National Park. Make sure to secure a backcountry permit if you want to camp here with an overlook of Saddle Canyon. Retrace your route east, head south, and enter the full boundary of GCNP. All dispersed camping beyond this point is prohibited so make sure you have backcountry campsites reserved ahead of time for this next stretch. Next up is Swamp Point where the North Bass Trailhead is located along with views of Muav Canyon. Retrace and head south to seasonal Kanabownits Spring and Kanabownitz Lookout Tower; the old fire tower is on the list of registered historical places and worth the small uphill.
Heading south, the route curves along the Walla Valley and Kanabownits Canyon before a turnoff for Point Sublime. Head towards this cape as the landscape descends gently to ponderosas before being spit out onto a peninsula jutting into the heart of the Grand Canyon. Seek a backcountry permit from GCNP beforehand and spend a night camping under incredible dark skies along the edge of the canyon at Point Sublime. Retrace your route and begin a frequently rutted, rocky, and eroded section eastwards towards the Widforss Trailhead. You'll cross The Basin midway where subalpine meadows spread their latitude while ringed by spruce and aspen. Keep an eye open for bison and give them plenty of space if they are on the road. Join the AZT at Widforss TH and take it to the North Kaibab Trailhead where a reliable water faucet is turned on by the NPS from May 15 - October 15. From here, a short ride on the North Rim Greenway brings you into the North Rim Campground and North Rim Village.
The North Rim Campground has hiker/biker sites that you can camp in for $6 a night with water spigots. The North Rim Campground also sports a General Store, showers, laundromat, and charging stations. When you ride down to the North Rim Lodge in the village, there are a few restaurants, more water spigots, and lodging. Park your bike and hike out to Bright Angel Point with full views of the South Rim across the chasm, then retrace your way up the Bridle Trail to the North Kaibab TH where you will keep to the road and turn east on Cape Royal. As a forewarning, the paved road up to Cape Royal has no shoulder, has many curves, and can be heavy with traffic in the afternoon. If you choose to ride up this portion of the route, do so in the morning and wear bright colors/flashing lights. You'll first hit Point Imperial - the highest viewpoint in Grand Canyon National Park at 8803 feet. Retrace the route and head out to Angel's Window and Cape Royal on the Walhalla Plateau along with stops at Greenland Lake, Vista Encantada, Roosevelt Point, the Cape Final Trail, and Walhalla Overlook. Retrace the route and head back towards the Widforss TH.
Past Widforss, you'll jump on the AZT and ride singletrack through young aspen stands all the way to the boundary of Grand Canyon National Park. Stay on the AZT, cross over into the Kaibab National Forest, and take a side ride up to the historic North Rim Lookout Tower were Edward Abbey spent some time as a ranger. The AZT will intersect with the smooth and beautiful dirt road of FR 610. Staying on here carries you out to Nankoweap Trailhead and a view of the Saddle Mountain Wilderness plunging into the Grand Canyon. Retrace the route and swing a side-turn north towards Marble Viewpoint and some of the best dispersed camping on the route; camp out on the bald at the terminus. Views of the East Rim, Saddle Mountain, Grand Canyon, Little Colorado River Gorge, Marble Canyon, Grand Staircase Escalante, Navajo Mountain, Baaj Nwaavjo I'tah Kukveni NM, and the Vermilion Cliffs will all spread before you.
Retrace the route and jump back on the AZT which churns and weaves through high subalpine meadows and deep spruce thickets up, down, and across the Kaibab Plateau. Arrive at the East Rim Viewpoint and opposing views of Marble Viewpoint. Ride on FR 611 towards DeMotte for one last resupply before the end. The last cape on top of the Kaibab will be seen at Dog Point out along smooth dirt FR 610. After, you'll join a section of AZT singletrack that heads north through meadow bowls set with dirt roads. You'll eventually leave the AZT and ride across Highway 67 for a climb up to the Spine of the Kaibab. This broad ridgeline is traversed by wide and wonderful dirt FR 462 as it stays over 9000 feet in elevation traveling through the heart of the subalpine forests on the Kaibab Plateau. You'll start a cumulative descent that intersects with Highway 67. Ride the pavement shoulder for a couple of miles before swinging a right onto the dirt road leading to the Murray Lake Trailhead for the Arizona Trail and the end of the route.
9. Route Difficulty, Surface Conditions, and Direction to Ride
Route Difficulty
Physical Difficulty = 7/10 (Very rugged terrain with abundant climbing, some of which is very steep and unrideable)
Technical Difficulty = 6/10 (Continuous sections of track may be rocky, loose, and steep; (e.g., 4×4 roads or singletrack in rugged/rocky terrain) suitable for intermediate mountain bikers)
The technical difficulty of the route is due to the abundant spread of surfaces that range from pavement, to smooth dirt, to chunky doubletrack. There are stretches with several miles of rugged and rocky tread. There are also miles of gorgeous wide dirt roads coursing through the woods or across plateaus. More on notable rocky sections can be found under "Surface Conditions" below.
The physical difficulty is mostly due to the climbing. Make no doubt, this route is hilly and can be steep. The North Rim Capes travels across the mountainous folds of the Kaibab Plateau; riders should expect rolling terrain that frequently ascends and descends ridges and canyons. The route ascends to the Kaibab High Point at 9200 feet from a low point in Fredonia at 4600 feet. Although the route is gradual on average, there are some sections featuring steep grades. And most salient, almost every cape has to be reached by traveling one-way down a dirt road that invariably descends several hundred to a thousand+ feet. This means that you must immediately turn around and climb back up to rejoin the route's loop. You will think about this each time you head to a cape. But take succor in knowing that those views of the Grand Canyon are well worth it.
Noteworthy Climbs
Climbing up into the Buckskin Mountains from House Rock Valley Road
Ascending up Warm Springs Canyon to Jacob Lake
Climbing to FR 427 after Jumpup Cabin
Heading up to Demotte from the end of Rainbow Rim
Finally, there are conditions difficulties on this route. These include climate, temperature, environment, elevation, water, and resupplies.
Temperatures on the route can swing between over 100 degrees in Fredonia and House Rock Valley to below freezing on the Kaibab Plateau.
There is little shade and lots of exposure around the Vermilion Cliffs and Fredonia. Trees can be rare - it is a desertscape.
The Canyon rim edge can be much hotter than further inland due to convection currents in the chasm. Be aware of that in the hotter months when riding to each cape.
The high elevation gain and high altitude (9,000+ feet) will challenge riders not acclimatized.
Peanut butter mud is a very real possibility if it rains on the dirt roads around House Rock Valley, Vermilion Cliffs, Buckskin Mountains, and out towards Gunsight Point.
The scarce nature of water and infrequent food resupplies requires riders to carry several days of resources at a time. Always bring more water than you need should a spring or wildlife tank be dry. A stretch of 192 miles exists between food resupplies at Jacob Lake and Demotte.
Surface Conditions
The North Rim COTC travels down a trove of Forest Service roads and old doubletrack. Some of the Forest Service roads are regularly maintained, wide, lightly graveled, and sometimes hero dirt. The spurs off of these carry riders down smooth-to-chunky-to-decayed doubletrack - especially out to the most remote capes of the route where vehicles infrequently travel. The dirt roads in Grand Canyon National Park are especially poorly maintained. I've been told the USFS puts spending priority on their unpaved roads while the NPS does not. Overall, there can be extended sections of washboard, ruts, and chunk with ample babyheads. Some of the viewpoints that the North Rim Capes utilizes are very remote and are often littered with tree blowdowns come early summer. The deadfall will get removed, but anyone traveling in the early season may have to go around/over trees until agencies clear them.
If any rain/snow is forecast, most of the unpaved route will become peanut butter/death mud and impassable in places. Leave No Trace and avoid riding at these times until the route dries out. In addition, flash flooding from precipitation is a real possibility in the lower portions of the route around the Vermilion Cliffs and House Rock Valley - stay safe and stay out of washes or low areas at those times.
Noteworthy Primitive, Rocky Surfaces
The climb up into the Buckskin Mountains from House Rock Valley Road
The last portion of the ride out to Jumpup Point
Climbing up FR 272 from the base of Crazy Jug over to Rainbow Rim is short but steep and rocky requiring some hike-a-bike
FR 206 down to Quaking Aspen Spring
The road out to Swamp Point (especially after monsoons)
The entire road between Point Sublime and the Widforss Trailhead. This can be quite awful with washouts, erosion, steep babyhead sections, hike-a-bikes, and chunk.
Noteworthy Vehicular Pavement
Kaibab Descent to Vermilion Cliffs: Has little shoulder and is curvy, but traffic can be less if ridden in the morning. It's almost entirely downhill (2000+ feet of loss) making for a quick ride and is commonly ridden by touring cyclists. Use flashing lights and bright colors to be seen.
Paved FR 22 between Fredonia and Warm Springs Canyon: Has very little traffic. There are good lines-of-sights for both cyclists and drivers. This is a rural, quiet backroad.
Riding to Cape Royal and Point Imperial in Grand Canyon National Park: This is windy, twisty, and has poor lines-of-sight on the curves. Plus, there can heavy traffic on it, especially in the afternoons. If you choose to ride this portion, make sure to ride defensively, wear bright colors, and use flashing lights. I also recommend riding early in the morning when traffic is less. As a heads up, GCNP does not recommend bicyclists on this stretch of road (but it is legal to ride and definitely is ridden).
Direction to Ride
The route is intended to be ridden in a counterclockwise direction. The reasons for this include:
There is an anticipatory build of capes as riders begin with the Kanab Creek Wilderness side-canyon views before working their way to the full sweep of Grand Canyon's heart. Especially for those who have never seen the Grand Canyon before, the momentum of increasing view-grandiosity will be awesome.
An opportunity to acclimatize to elevation by riding up from the desert to the subalpine.
Descending the Kaibab Plateau on 89A instead of having to climb the highway with traffic.
10. When to Ride (Temperature + Climate)
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When: May 15* - June
Average Highs:
High Elevation (North Rim):
63 - 74 F
Low Elevation (Fredonia):
77 - 89 FAverage Lows:
High Elevation (North Rim):
35 - 42 F
Low Elevation (Fredonia):
40 - 47 FPrecipitation:
High Elevation (North Rim):
0.40 - 0.62"
Low Elevation (Fredonia):
0.34 - 0.55"Snow:
High Elevation (North Rim):
0.0 - 2.0"
Low Elevation (Fredonia):
0.0"
**Bicycles prohibited on North Rim Grand Canyon NP roads from Dec. 1 until May 15. You can start the route prior to May 15 as it's 350 miles before you'll reach the Park boundary, but be sure not to enter the roads of Grand Canyon NP before that date.
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Paved Highway 67 to the North Rim opens for the season May 15. Bicycles prohibited on North Rim Grand Canyon NP roads from Dec. 1 until May 15
Services generally open on the North Rim May 15.
Large and lingering snow drifts possible in May.
Dirt road tread tends to be smoother and in better condition. Maintenance and grading occurs.
Water sources full, but often filled with algae from the frequent sun.
Long days, vibrant grass, bright green new growth, and the driest months of the entire year.
High elevation forests will have standing ephemeral lakes and snow melt creeks providing more water opportunities. Springs will typically be running strongly.
Potential for downed trees along roads and trails along the higher portions of the route.
Foresummer conditions in the low deserts means high temps and incredibly dry conditions.
Early Summer means balancing snow in the high country with heat in the lowlands.
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When: September - Mid October
Average Highs:
High Elevation (North Rim):
56 - 67 F
Low Elevation (Fredonia):
71 - 84 FAverage Lows:
High Elevation (North Rim):
32 - 41 F
Low Elevation (Fredonia):
35 - 47 FPrecipitation:
High Elevation (North Rim):
1.82"
Low Elevation (Fredonia):
1.51 - 1.59"Snow:
High Elevation (North Rim):
0.0 - 4.0"
Low Elevation (Fredonia):
0.0"
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The desert could be very dry if there has been a weak monsoon season.
Water sources are likely to be drier and shallower than Early Summer, although the water could be clearer.
Dirt road tread tends to be rockier and eroded due to monsoons and ATV use.
Services at the North Rim close beginning Oct. 15. Expect dwindling supplies at the North Rim General Store the last few weeks prior to Oct. 15 as they attempt to sell off inventory for the winter.
High elevation forests will be green and lush with late summer flower blooms at the beginning of September and filled with the orange embers of stunning aspen leaves in October.
Monsoon thunderstorms are typically expected through the end of September. They keep the temps nice, however, portions of the route around House Rock Valley, the Buckskin Mountains, and Gunsight Point can flash flood, becoming dangerous or impassible. The soil here will absolutely become death mud.
Fall means being bookended by high temps at the beginning of the autumn and the threat of snow at the close of the season.
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When: July - August
Average Highs:
High Elevation (North Rim):
74 - 77 F
Low Elevation (Fredonia):
91 - 94 FAverage Lows:
High Elevation (North Rim):
47 - 49 F
Low Elevation (Fredonia):
55 - 56 FPrecipitation:
High Elevation (North Rim):
1.92 - 2.81"Low Elevation (Fredonia):
1.06 - 1.51"Snow:
High Elevation (North Rim):
0.0"Low Elevation (Fredonia):
0.0"
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Conditions are great on the high elevation Kaibab Plateau. Aspens are in full-leaf, but water sources begin drying up.
High UV index and altitude means temperatures feel much hotter than the ambient air temperature forecasts.
Challenging or dangerous heat in the lower desert portions.
During monsoon season, portions of the route around House Rock Valley, the Buckskin Mountains, and Gunsight Point can flash flood, becoming dangerous or impassible. The soil here will absolutely become death mud.
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When: Late October - Early May
Average Highs:
High Elevation (North Rim):
38 - 56 F
Low Elevation (Fredonia):
46 - 71 FAverage Lows:
High Elevation (North Rim):
17 - 35 F
Low Elevation (Fredonia):
19 - 40 FPrecipitation:
High Elevation (North Rim):
1.65 - 3.82"
Low Elevation (Fredonia):
0.0 - 1.89"Snow:
High Elevation (North Rim):
4.0 - 30.0"
Low Elevation (Fredonia):
0.0 - 6.0"
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Paved Highway 67 to the North Rim is seasonally closed between December 1 and May 15. Early winter storms can close the highway even sooner in the fall.
North Rim facilities, lodges, and operations close seasonally between October 15 and May 15.
Bikes are prohibited on Grand Canyon National Park roads from Dec. 1 until May 15.
The North Rim receives a cumulative winter average of 142" of snow.
Massive snowstorms and blizzards. Multiple feet of snowpack. Extreme winter conditions. Most paved/unpaved roads close on the Kaibab Plateau.
The desert will be cold, but portions of the lower elevations may be rideable (depending on the amount of snowfall and rain for mud) if the forecast is dry and the atmosphere stable.
All the data above are presented as ranges of monthly averages.
***Visit these links to view further climate information:
***Seasonal Road Closure Information for Grand Canyon National Park
11. North Rim vs. South Rim
The Grand Canyon bisects the portion of the Colorado Plateau found in Northern Arizona into two distinct halves. The South and North Rims offer riders different views, perspectives, elevations, temperatures, climate, vegetation, and remoteness. Thus, the COTC exists as two circuits.
South Rim COTC
Across the Grand Canyon, the South Rim Capes of the Canyon is the more accessible of the two bikepacking routes. Only located a 1.5 hour drive from Flagstaff, Arizona, the South Rim encompasses the Coconino Plateau and the more developed Grand Canyon Village area. Riders entering Grand Canyon National Park will find longer paved stretches along the rim as well as more vehicles and people. This isn't to say the route is frontcountry - for more than 75% of the route takes in dirt forest roads and little traveled doubletrack that the majority of visitors to the South Rim simply don't visit. The route provides more opportunities for resupplies and water. The landscape is lower in elevation allowing the route to be ridden for a greater portion of the year. The landscape can be generalized as arid-uplands and desert, with dominant vegetation being the juniper and the pinyon pine. This route is shorter and there is less overall elevation gain.
Range of Days to Ride: 4 - 6 days
North Rim COTC
The North Rim Capes of the Canyon is the less accessible and more remote ride. The North Rim of the Grand Canyon is a nearly 4 hour drive from Flagstaff, AZ and receives only a fraction of the visitors that the popular South Rim receives. The route often travels down rarely driven or ridden roads into lesser-seen parts of the Kaibab Plateau. Riders should be prepared to self-rescue and be self-sufficient on this route as hitching a ride may be unlikely if a problem arises. Truly reliable water resupplies are few with longer distances between sources. Food resupplies are even fewer. Bikepackers should expect to carry several days worth of food and at least 24 hours worth of water for several stretches. The landscape makes dramatic swings between high elevation subalpine and lower elevation exposed desert - make sure to acclimatize. The North Rim's winter weather is more extreme, making the riding season much narrower than the South Rim Capes. The landscape juxtaposes thick aspen groves and spruce with raw rocklands seeded with sparse grass and sage. This route is longer with far more elevation gain.
Range of Days to Ride: 12 - 16 days
12. Capes Connectors
The Capes Connectors provide options to connect the North and South Rim Capes of the Canyon in three ways.
Inner Canyon Connector
Paved Connector
Western Wildlands Dirt Connector
Further information on each of the Capes Connectors can be found below:
13. Ecoregions and Landscape
The Grand Canyon is located on the Colorado Plateau. The vast changes in elevation, roiling geology, and local microclimates lead to a rich offering of ecoregions. Landscapes in the region span from low desert and riparian strips along the Colorado River at the bottom of the Grand Canyon to subalpine mixed conifer forests and meadows at the highest points along the Kaibab Plateau of the North Rim.
The following are ecoregions riders can expect to experience on the North Rim.
Marble Platform
Locations on Route: House Rock Valley Road
Description: Desert scrub and desert grasslands stretching across the limestone plateau of House Rock Valley.
Escarpments
Locations on Route: Vermilion Cliffs
Description: Cliff-benches that descend dramatically in red shades from high conifer desert forests to semi-desert shrublands at the bottom.
Grand Canyon
Locations on Route: Grand Canyon National Park
Description: Dramatic relief of exposed rock and geology that can vertically extend from 2000 - 8000 feet. The upper elevations of the route will pass by sagelands, pinyon-juniper forests, yuccas, and needlegrass.
Arizona Strip Plateaus
Locations on Route: Buckskin Mountains, House Rock Road, Jumpup Divide, Sowats Point
Description: Woodlands and shrublands that receive little summer moisture. Lots of junipers, sagebrush, grasses, and snakeweed.
Semi-Arid Benchlands and Canyonlands
Locations on Route: House Rock Valley Road, Gunsight Point
Description: Narrow canyons snake through mesas with loads of exposed bedrock. There are lots of sand, grasses, and sage.
Cold Desert Sagebrush-Grasslands
Locations on Route: Fredonia
Description: Rolling plateaus and valleys that are relatively low in relief compared to other areas of the route. Large amounts of sage and gramma grasses grow in arid soils.
Montane Conifer Forests
Locations on Route: Jacob Lake, Big Springs, Rainbow Rim, Fire Point, Point Sublime, Kanabownits, North Rim Village, Bright Angel Point, Point Imperial, Vista Encantada, Angel's Window, Cape Royal, Nankoweap/Saddle Mountain, Dog Point
Description: Trees include ponderosa pines, Gambel's oak, firs, and blue spruce. Fescue grasses grow well in the abundant moisture of the summer rains. Both the soil and air are cooler in the high elevations.
Northern Woodlands and Sagebrush
Locations on Route: Thunder River, Monument Point, Crazy Jug, Swamp Point, Descent off Kaibab Plateau
Description: Found in a ring around the lower elevations of the Kaibab Plateau. Expect juniper-pinyon forests intermixed with an abundance of sage. Most precipitation occurs during the colder seasons.
Arizona/New Mexico Subalpine Forests
Locations on Route: The climb from Rainbow Rim through Dry Park up towards Demotte, AZT Singletrack, Marble Viewpoint, East Rim Viewpoint, Spine of the Kaibab
Description: Generally occurs around 9000 feet or higher on the route. Main species include Engelmann spruce, blue spruce, white firs, and aspen. The soil often freezes in this ecoregion.
Montane and Subalpine Grasslands
Locations on Route: Demotte
Description: Large, flat, poorly draining soils lead to large subalpine grasslands around 9000 feet that are ringed by the subalpine forest. Soils freeze here. Mixed sedge species can be expected.
Inner Canyon
For riders looking to stash their bikes on top and hike over the rims into the inner gorge of the Grand Canyon, a unique ecoregion awaits. The inner canyon of the Grand Canyon is its own unique ecoregion composed of limestone, granite, shale, sandstone, and metamorphic rock. Starting from the rim edge and descending, pinyon, juniper, and firs will straggle and then fade as sage, Mormon tea, and rabbitbrush cling to the exposed rock. In many ways, descending to the Colorado River is descending ecologically from Canada to Mexico.
Temperatures at the bottom differ from the top by nearly 20 degrees F. The Colorado River flows at elevation 2000 ft. and is frequently lined with rich riparian corridors. Hikers can expect to see cottonwoods, willows, mesquite, and tamarisk along the waterfront and especially lining side tributaries. In warmer months, these plants stand out as incredible neon green oases promising shade among the cooking red and ochre rock.
Know your physical limits. It is a 5000-6000 foot vertical climb from the river to the rim. During summer, temperatures at the bottom of the Canyon can be nearly 120 degrees F. DO NOT attempt to do a rim-to-river hike when temperatures are elevated for both your safety and the safety of first responders. Cool temperatures on the rim don't make cool temperatures in the canyon.
14. Where Bikes Are Allowed and Not Allowed
North Rim Capes Specific Bike Access
When traveling out to Jumpup and Sowats Point, make sure to stay on established roads/the route and not to stray into the Kanab Creek Wilderness which will come right up to the road in places. Bikes are not allowed in Wilderness Areas.
No riding singletrack or trails above the rim in Grand Canyon National Park except for the Arizona Trail. You are allowed to cycle on any established dirt roads.
*Why May 15th, specifically?* Bicycles are prohibited on North Rim Grand Canyon National Park roads from Dec. 1 until May 15. You can start the route prior to May 15 as it's 350 miles before you'll reach the Park boundary, but be sure not to enter the roads of Grand Canyon NP before that date. No backcountry permits for overnight camping will be issued prior to May 15.
General Access
Bikes are STRICTLY forbidden below the rim in the inner gorge of the Grand Canyon. DO NOT RIDE YOUR BIKE DOWN INTO THE CANYON - you will get fined, it is illegal, and you will hurt the perception and opportunities of other bikepackers on this route. There are certain trails on top that are also off-limits to bikes; this route expressly avoids them. No cross-country travel in Grand Canyon National Park; practicing Leave No Trace means staying on established trails, roads, and paths.
Finally, respect tribal land and do not ride without permission in either the lands of the Kaibab Band of Paiute Indians just outside of Fredonia or the Navajo Nation (Diné) just across the Colorado River at Marble Canyon. This route stays explicitly within land domains where riding is public and legal. Although it may approach boundaries with the surrounding tribal nations, you should never ride onto the reservations without securing tribal government permission. Doing so otherwise is disrespectful and unlawful. I must note that although this route stays on "public lands," the formation of Grand Canyon National Park involved the forced removal of the Havasupai, and they have endured legal battles to keep their vastly smaller chunk of land out of their historical precedent. Know the land you are riding on is traditionally theirs, know their current reservation boundaries are smaller than where they historically inhabited, and know where you are riding to keep yourself both legal and respectful.
Beyond that, almost all paved and unpaved roads on top of the rim are free and fair for riding a bike on. The Arizona Trail passages up on the rim of the Grand Canyon also allow bikes to be ridden. There are TONS of dirt roads, double track, and more that this route doesn't even begin to touch, all available for bike travel.
15. Native Nations and This Land
The land around and including the Grand Canyon is the current and traditional home to eleven federally recognized tribes (as well as other non-federally recognized tribes) including the:
Havasupai Tribe
Hopi Tribe
Hualapai Tribe
Kaibab Band of Paiute Indians
Las Vegas Band of Paiute Indians
Moapa Band of Paiute Indians
Diné (Navajo Nation)
Paiute Indian Tribe of Utah
San Juan Southern Paiute Tribe
The Pueblo of Zuni
Yavapai-Apache Nation
Native people are absolutely still here in the area, and have been here for thousands of years. The Grand Canyon is both an actual and spiritual home. To many Tribes, the Canyon is a Living Landscape. When you as a rider are bikepacking through this area, make sure to treat the Living Landscape as as you would a literal home: Recreate with Respect. Act with care.
The Grand Canyon is a Cultural Landscape; It is not a theme park.
The founding of the National Park involved the forced removal of indigenous groups, especially the Havasupai. The Havasupai's traditional land included not only the namesake canyon they still live in today, but many of the Grand Canyon's riparian gardens and campgrounds, including Ha'a Gyoh (Havasupai Gardens) and Mather Campground. The Park spent many years shuffling Havasupai families around, taking advantage of labor, restricting their land use, and forcing them outside the new federal boundaries.
Grand Canyon National Park has spent the last few years moving in the direction of rebuilding relations with associated tribes of the area. The Park has worked to turn Desert View into the Desert View Inter-tribal Cultural Heritage Site. The work to move towards rebuilding relations is going to take work by the Park. Words of intention show a desire to move the needle; more authentic action will need to be done. Further information on the tribes of the Grand Canyon area and the history of Native/park relations can be found below:
In August 2023, President Joe Biden created the Baaj Nwaavjo I'tah Kukveni (Ancestral Footprints of the Grand Canyon) National Monument. This effort was led by a coalition of Tribes in the area with an eye towards protecting their Ancestral Homelands, preventing uranium mining from impacting the watershed, and safeguarding the cultural and ecological aspects of the region. Nearly 1 million acres in size, and spanning land on both the North and South Rims, the National Monument now encompasses the entire Kaibab National Forest in the Tusayan District, parts of the North Kaibab District, and BLM lands around the House Rock Valley area. The Capes of the Canyon travels extensively through these ancestral lands. Keep the successful efforts of the Grand Canyon Tribal Coalition in mind, as well as the intent of the Baaj Nwaavjo I'tah Kukveni, as you bikepack the route. Further information on the Ancestral Footprints of the Grand Canyon NM is found below:
16. Leave No Trace and Bikepacking Ethics for the Colorado Plateau
Bikepackers, like all backcountry users, leave an impact on the land, vegetation, and wildlife of the places they travel through. Leave No Trace outlines specific actions that bikepackers can take to minimize their impact on the land. Below are some considerations I would urge bikepackers on the COTC to take that are specific to this area.
Ride on Dry and Compact Roads/Trails
The soil of the Colorado Plateau has a high clay and silt content with some serious caliche. Rain and snowmelt will turn the ground to peanut butter mud, or even horrendous death mud. It will clog up your tires and derailleurs. Even worse, it tears up the roads and trails as you leave long ruts and holes in the ground behind you. If there is rain in the forecast, don't ride the route. Wait for it to dry. This could take hours, days, or weeks depending on the time of year.
Avoid or Simply Don't Use Campfires
Climate change has been exasperating the aridity of the Southwest. Soils are drier, snowpack is lessening, air humidity is decreasing, and trees are dying from drought-associated stress. In foresummer (May/June) and windy days, conditions can be ripe for increasingly destructive wildfires. Northern Arizona has been stripped of many an acre by headline-grabbing infernos. Enough negative consequences of human-caused wildfires from campfires has led me to almost entirely abandon the practice in the backcountry. I cook stoveless, I pack layers for the cold, and I bring food to build my metabolic heat when I know the temperature will drop. I urge other bikepackers to consider doing the same on this route. If you do want to cook with heat, avoid alcohol/cat stoves and use fuel-controlled stoves like Jetboils and Whisperlites.
Look but Don't Disturb or Photo-Geotag Cultural and Archeological Items
There are parts of this route that may pass by unmarked sensitive cultural/historical/archeological sites or items. If you see or stumble on something, look at it, enjoy it, and learn more about the item when back in the frontcountry. Leave it exactly where it is and do not collect it. DO NOT post locations, geotag photos, or post the items on social media. This is at the request of both the Native Tribes of the area, Grand Canyon National Park, and Kaibab National Forest.
Avoid touching these items as well. Remember that this place is a Living Landscape to many Native groups - this means all items contain a life force and are alive in some way that creates a balance of nature. Take on an approach that treats all things (animate, inanimate, natural, cultural, etc.) as deserving the respect, dignity, and privacy that we would want/expect for ourselves by others. Looking through this different "cultural lens" takes some work. Taking these actions are an opportunity to demonstrate respect and awareness of Indigenous perspectives of the world.
Camp at Least 0.25 Miles from Water Sources
Plan to camp 0.25 miles or further from all water sources on this route, especially the Arizona Game and Fish Department wildlife tanks. More information on water sources can be found below.
Leave No Trace is much bigger than just these four - I wanted to mention these four specifically for the COTC because of their local importance. Both Bikepacking Roots and Bikepacking.com have excellent resources on Leave No Trace for backcountry cyclists. These include:
Plan Ahead + Prepare
Travel + Camp on Durable Surfaces
Dispose of Waste Properly
Leave What You Find
Minimize Campfire Impacts
Respect Wildlife
Be Considerate of Other Visitors
Bikepacking Roots has the Love Where Your Ride Campaign where they partnered with the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics to make bikepacking specific principles. Visit the site to see a breakdown of each principle listed above.
Backpacking.com has the Leave No Trace for Bikepackers: Ride. Camp. Respect principles where they outline many of the same items listed above but also include Know the Land and Represent the Community (both excellent inclusions). Visit their website to read more.
17. Water Sources
Water is scarce along this route. The Kaibab National Forest is considered the driest national forest in the United States. Although the North Rim is higher than the South Rim and consequently receives an average of 25.8 inches of moisture a year, most quickly percolates through the porous rock of Kaibab Limestone that makes up the upper layers of this area. Within the canyon, water exits through numerous springs, but up on top, it's a relatively dry area. Springs may require you to stash your bike on the rim to hike down and retrieve water. The tablelands and canyonlands around the Vermilion Cliffs, House Rock Valley, and Buckskin Mountain are true desertscapes with little reliable surface runoff or pools. Plan to carry several liters of water, sometimes enough to last at least 24 hours and more than you think you'll need should you arrive at a source and find it dry.
Definite water can be found at Fredonia, Jacob Lake, Big Springs, Demotte, and the North Rim Village area in GCNP. Beyond that, water is mostly found in dirt cattle tanks, metal cattle tanks, springs, and Arizona Game and Fish Water Catchments (Wildlife Tanks). Wildlife tanks can be chock full of bugs and algae in the summer, but are safe to drink with treatment/purification. AZGFD Wildlife Tanks help provide water to wildlife in the ever-drying environment of the southwest under climate change. There is no camping within 0.25 miles of AZGFD Wildlife Tanks (or other water sources). This route requires riders to dry camp. Be prepared to load up at water sources so that you can camp far away from them.
Consider making a donation to help the AZGFD keep these wildlife tanks stocked at AZWildlifeHero.com. You can also donate to Wildlife Water Works which is a nonprofit whose mission is to, "Replenish, Refurbish & Create Arizona Game Water Catchments." Donations to Wildlife Water Works can be made here. I suggest a minimum donation of $25 because it's hard work by volunteers to keep these water sources maintained and filled.
***Water sources on the Colorado Plateau, as with the rest of the Southwest, are often ephemeral or unreliable. To help give riders a sense of water availability, I've rated sources using the scale below.
Water Reliability Scale
1 = unreliable; 2 = seasonal;
3 = mostly reliable; 4 = definite source
18. Camping
There is no dispersed camping within the boundaries of Grand Canyon National Park. However, there is an established camping site at the North Rim Campground near the village, and it has a fantastic hiker/biker site for walk-ups arriving by foot or bicycle. The hiker/biker site is shared with other cyclists and backpackers and costs $6 per night per person. In my opinion, the hiker/biker sites are the best in the campground as they literally sit near the edge of the rim. The North Rim Campground is conveniently located next to the North Rim General Store and is only a short ride away from the lodging, restaurants, and Post Office (M-F, May 15 - October 15, 8:00 am - 12:00 pm, 1:00 pm - 5:00 pm) in the village.
If you want to stay at the backcountry campsites above the rim at Fire Point, Swamp Point, or Point Sublime, you will need to reserve backcountry permits through the GCNP Backcountry Information Center or online at Recreation.gov. No backcountry permits will be issued prior to May 15 for campsites. Here are the steps to take to reserve these sites:
Head to Recreation.gov for Grand Canyon National Park Backcountry Permits.
Click “Check Availability” under Available Permits on the right hand side.
Choose the button tab “Above Rim Areas - North Rim” at the top.
Examine the following options:
NJ1 - Fire Point Campsite - Large or Small Group
NJ2 - Swamp Point - Campsite - Large or Small Group
NH1 - Point Sublime - Campsite
If it's less than 30 days until your planned date to camp at a site, and the "1-6 people" permit is already taken, you are allowed to choose the "LARGE GROUP" option if it's still available for any of the locations above.
If you want to backcountry camp anywhere else above the Rim in Grand Canyon National Park, you'll need to navigate to the same link above and make sure to choose the proper Use Area. This Use Area Map will help you determine which zone is appropriate for your intended backcountry campsite.
Outside of GCNP in the the Baaj Nwaavjo I'tah Kukveni National Monument, Kaibab National Forest, Vermilion Cliffs National Monument, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, and House Rock Valley, excellent and numerous dispersed camping abounds. The North Rim is truly one of the most remarkable places for dispersed camping right up against the edge of the Canyon at numerous locations for those making the remote trek out. Just make sure to pay attention to boundary lines between Grand Canyon National Park and the Kaibab National Forest.
19. Food and Resupplying
There are several food resupplies on this route. However, they are greatly spaced. The distance between Jacob Lake and Demotte alone is 192 route-miles. The remote nature of this route means riders need to carefully plan how much food to carry and to expect several days between resupplies.
Mile 89.7 - Fredonia, AZ: Chevron Gas Station; Family Dollar
Mile 154.6 - Jacob Lake, AZ: Jacob Lake Inn + Restaurant + General Store
Mile 346.4 - Demotte: North Rim Country Store + Coffee Truck (May 15 - Oct. 15); Kaibab Lodge + Restaurant + Small Store
Mile 423.0 - North Rim Village: North Rim General Store; North Rim Lodge Restaurant; Deli in the Pines (Expect dwindling supplies at the North Rim General Store the last few weeks prior to Oct. 15 as they attempt to sell off inventory for the winter)
Mile 521.3 - Demotte: North Rim Country Store + Coffee Truck (May 15 - Oct. 15); Kaibab Lodge + Restaurant + Small Store
20. Sample Route Itinerary
This is a suggested itinerary. Use it as a rough guide for your own planning purposes. Feel free to use it, adapt it, or don't use it all and make your own plans. Plan your trip on this route based on your own strengths, comfortabilities, experiences, wants, and needs.
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Mileage: 40 Miles
Elevation Gain: 1000 ft.
Description: Park your car for the duration of the ride at the Murray Lake Trailhead for the Arizona Trail. Start by riding through ponderosa woodlands along dirt roads. Turn onto paved Highway 89A where, if you begin your day early, you can avoid heavy traffic on the descent off the Kaibab Plateau. You'll hit a stunning viewpoint at Cape 1: Vermilion Cliffs. Continue to the bottom and turn left onto unpaved House Rock Valley Road that takes you along the face of Vermilion Cliffs National Monument. Stop at the California Condor viewing site. Beyond camp, take an opportunity to hike down Wire Pass and even The Wave if you have permits.
Water: There is no reliable water today, so carry everything you need to get you through tomorrow.
Resupply: None
Camping: Stateline Campground; Dispersed camping at a few pullouts further down the road
-
Mileage: 50 Miles
Elevation Gain: 3100 ft.
Description: Continue riding up House Rock Valley Road into Utah by entering the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Climb up into the Buckskin Mountains and take dirt roads to the small high desert town of Fredonia, AZ. The ridgeline today affords multiple viewing opportunities of the Grand Staircase and its tiered colored-cliffs.
Water: Wildlife Tank just past Wire Pass parking area; Wildlife Tanks up in the Buckskin Mountains; Fredonia
Resupply: Family Dollar or Chevron Gas Station in Fredonia.
Camping: Country Rose RV Park in Fredonia, AZ
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Mileage: 65 Miles
Elevation Gain: 4900 ft.
Description: Leave Fredonia heading south on paved FR 22. Turn right onto dirt BLM 164 to Cape 2: Gunsight Point. Return, hit pavement, and continue south before a large dirt climb up geologically beautiful Warm Springs Canyon to Jacob Lake. You'll be up in the cooler pines at 8000 feet.
Water: Water Tank out at Gunsight Point; Jacob Lake
Resupply: Jacob Lake Inn has a restaurant and small convenience store.
Camping: Jacob Lake Campground; Kaibab Camper Village; Jacob Lake Inn; Dispersed camping in the woods nearby
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Mileage: 0 Miles
Elevation Gain: 0 ft.
Description: Take an optional 0 day at Jacob Lake. Rest your legs, grab a shower, eat lots of food, enjoy the area, and resupply. This is your last resupply for a big stretch of 192 miles.
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Mileage: 34 Miles
OPTIONAL: Combine Days 4 and 5 into one big day out to Jumpup Point.
Elevation Gain: 1900 ft.
Description: Eat a big breakfast at Jacob Lake, and then head out into the pines. Make sure to take lots of supplies with you as it's 192 miles to Demotte. Ride through the pines along the ridgeline of the Kaibab Plateau. Look out at young aspen growing in a burn scar. Find yourself thick in the montane and subalpine woodlands. Ride out to Big Spring Lookout Tower and then descend Castle Canyon (check out its spring in the cave) before jumping on FR 22 to ride down to Big Springs.
Water: Castle Spring; Big Springs
Resupply: None
Camping: Reserve a cabin at Big Springs ahead of time; Dispersed camping at the intersection of FR 429 and FR 22
-
Mileage: 30 Miles
OPTIONAL: Combine Days 4 and 5 into one big day out to Jumpup Point.
Elevation Gain: 1450 ft.
Description: Head out from Big Springs for a very remote ride out to Cape 3: Jumpup Point. It's likely to get very hot out there, but there is shade to be found among pinyon-juniper stands including a few trees at the viewpoint. Head down Nail Canyon from Big Springs where several petroglyph viewing sites are found among the gorgeous cliffs. Weave through grasslands set in a bowl of land where the route climbs to the Jumpup Divide before heading out to the point.
Water: Wildlife Tank near Jumpup Point
Resupply: None
Camping: Dispersed camping at Jumpup Point; Consider biking an additional 14 miles to reach Jumpup Cabin if you reserve it
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Mileage: 59 Miles
Elevation Gain: 4700 ft.
Description: Ride back from Jumpup Point down to historic Jumpup Cabin before climbing up to FR 427. Enjoy smooth singletrack that mingles between woodlands and grassy mountain flanks. Descend on an out-and-back to Cape 4: Sowats Point. Head down FR 232 to Indian Hollow Campground. Setup camp and then head down the road a little further to Cape 5: Thunder River.
Water: You'll hit several Wildlife Tanks today. The best is towards the start of the road out to Sowats Point. Grab that water on the way back after riding out to the viewpoint. Aim to get a LOT from this one and/or the next one over on the road to Thunder River/Indian Hollow Campground. Either way, these are the last surely reliable sources until Demotte. Carry extra just in case Parissawampitts and Quaking Aspen Springs are dry.
Resupply: None
Camping: Indian Hollow Campground near Thunder River Trailhead
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Mileage: 34 Miles
Elevation Gain: 3900 ft.
Description: Climb up to FR 425 and head down the road to check out an old cabin. Then, ascend up to Cape 6: Crazy Jug. Enjoy the view for a while before biking down the road to Cape 7: Monument Point. Hike out on the Bill Hall Trail and take in the sweeping views of Rainbow Rim. Return the way you came and head out on FR 272 which can require a short hike-a-bike at the start. Grab water at Parissawampitts Spring if you need it, or skip the side-ride if you don't. Head downhill to the North Rim's famous singletrack: Rainbow Rim. This will be an 18 mile singletrack ride that can be both chunky and smooth as it careens through aspens, pines, and out to the rim. Ride part of it today by hitting up Cape 8: Parissawampitts Point, Cape 9: Fence Point, and Cape 10: Locust Point. Camp rim-side at Locust Point for the night.
Water: Wildlife Tank by Indian Hollow Campground; Parissawampitts Spring (seasonal flow)
Resupply: None
Camping: Dispersed camping at Locust Point
-
Mileage: 36 Miles
Elevation Gain: 3000 ft.
Description: Finish the rest of the Rainbow Rim singletrack by riding out to Cape 11: North Timp Point and Cape 12: Timp Point. Start a large climb towards Demotte Campground. Do a descent to Quaking Aspen Canyon and its spring. Ride through thick groves of aspen before weaving up and through the meadows of Dry Park with a stop at Dry Park Lookout Tower. Then begin the big climb to the high point of the route at 9200 feet. Descend down an awesome dirt road past Deer Lake to the subalpine meadows of Demotte.
Water: Quaking Aspen Spring (seasonal flow); Demotte Campground; North Rim Country Store
Resupply: North Rim Country Store or Kaibab Lodge at Demotte
Camping: Demotte Campground; Kaibab Lodge; Dispersed camping in the woods up FR 22
-
Mileage: 0 Miles
Elevation Gain: 0 ft.
Description: Take an optional 0 day in Demotte. Rest your legs, grab a shower if you're staying at the lodge, eat lots of food, enjoy the area, and resupply before heading to Grand Canyon National Park.
-
Mileage: 59 Miles
Elevation Gain: 3950 ft.
Description: Leave Demotte by climbing to the Kaibab Plateau high point at 9200 ft. Start a descent down remote smooth doubletrack to Cape 13: Fire Point in Grand Canyon National Park. Backtrack and reenter the Park once more on your way out on chunky doubletrack to Cape 14: Swamp Point. Retrace and start your way down little-maintained roads past Kanabownitz Lookout Tower to spectacular Cape 15: Point Sublime.
Water: Kanabownits Spring (often dry but can have a seasonal flow); Tipover Spring (seasonal flow) is very difficult to find and includes a bushwhack - don't rely on it; Carry lots of water out of Demotte to get you through tomorrow as a precaution.
Resupply: None.
Camping: Point Sublime - backcountry permit required. Backup Campsites: Swamp Point or Fire Point - backcountry permits required (or dispersed camping right before Fire Point at a great spot in the National Forest)
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Mileage: 22 Miles
Elevation Gain: 2600 ft.
Description: Today's ride is along the dirt road between Point Sublime and the Widforss Trailhead. It is rutted, little-maintained, steep in intervals, and very rocky. Expect slow-going at times. The views of aspens and a view from Cape 16: Crystal Canyon will make it worth it. Plus, there is a big ride across the Basin - a massive meadow lined with spruce where bison frequent. Hit up the North Kaibab Trailhead for water, then take the Bridle Trail to the North Rim Village. Make the short hike out to Cape 17: Bright Angel Point at sunset for an incredible evening.
Water: North Kaibab Trailhead (faucet on Mid-May - Mid-October); North Rim Campground; North Rim Village
Resupply: North Rim General Store
Camping: Hiker/Biker site at the North Rim Campground
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Mileage: 48 Miles
Elevation Gain: 4100 ft.
Description: Today is all on pavement. Leave a bunch of gear at your Hiker/Biker site in the North Rim Campground to make your rig lighter as you'll be doing an out-and-back. The pavement can be BUSY with vehicles (especially in the afternoon) - only do it if you're comfortable, and make sure to wear bright colors and flashing rear lights. Ride out to the highest viewpoint in Grand Canyon National Park at Cape 18: Point Imperial. Then ride and check out Greenland Lake and its historic cabin. Continue riding and stop along the road at Cape 19: Vista Encantada, Cape 20: Roosevelt Point, Cape 21: Walhalla Overlook, Cape 22: Angel's Window, and Cape 23: Cape Royal. Then it's back to the North Rim Campground again.
Water: Carry all the water you'll need for today on this out-and-back.
Resupply: North Rim General Store
Camping: Hiker/Biker site at the North Rim Campground
-
Mileage: 0 Miles
Elevation Gain: 0 ft.
Description: Take an optional 0 day at the hiker/biker site in the North Rim Campground. Rest your legs, grab a shower, do some laundry, eat lots of food, enjoy the area, and enjoy sitting in the chairs out back of the North Rim Lodge overlooking the Grand Canyon. If your legs feel up to it, head to the North Kaibab Trailhead and take a day hike down the North Kaibab Trail - bring water, snacks, and know your limits (down is optional, up is mandatory!).
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Mileage: 50.5 Miles
Elevation Gain: 3900 ft.
Description: Take the Bridle Trail out of the North Rim Village back towards the AZT. Ride AZT singletrack up along ridges and across vast subalpine meadows. Join the smooth dirt surfaces of FR 610 out to Cape 24: Nankoweap/Saddle Mountain. Retrace your route and head out to Cape 25: Marble Viewpoint. Retrace your route to join more AZT singletrack to head north across subalpine meadows to Cape 26: East Rim Viewpoint before jumping on forest service roads to head to Demotte.
Water: Blue water jug at the North Rim Entrance Station for AZTers; Marble Sinkhole; Crystal Spring; Demotte Campground; North Rim Country Store
Resupply: North Rim Country Store or Kaibab Lodge at Demotte
Camping: Demotte Campground; Kaibab Lodge; Dispersed camping in the woods up FR 22
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Mileage: 39 Miles
Elevation Gain: 2700 ft.
Description: Leave Demotte with a climb up well-maintained dirt Dog Saddle Road. Head out to the last cape on the route at Cape 27: Dog Point. Turn around, retrace, and join some AZT singletrack to head across large subalpine meadows before joining dirt roads once more. You'll cross the highway and join FR 641 that is a fantastic dirt road that rides the spine of the Kaibab Plateau at or near 9000 feet in elevation. Work your way over for a short stint on Highway 67 before pulling into the Murray Lake Trailhead of the AZT and the finish!
Water: Wildlife Tank near the finish; Plan to carry most of the water you'll need today
Resupply: None
Camping: Finish! Jacob Lake Campground; Kaibab Camper Village; Jacob Lake Inn; Dispersed camping in the woods nearby
21. Fees and Permits
Grand Canyon National Park requires a fee for entry. No cash, credit/debit only. ($35 for a vehicle; $20 for a bicycle).
Baaj Nwaavjo I'tah Kukveni National Monument, Kaibab National Forest, Vermilion Cliffs National Monument, and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument have no fees.
A Recreational Land Use Permit is required for any travel or camping on Arizona State Lands. Apply for and pay for one before you head out on the route. Carry it with you.
22. Getting to the Start
There are three main ways to the get to the start of the Capes of the Canyon.
Drive to the start (a personal car or rental).
Fly into Flagstaff, AZ and bike here.
Straight-up bike to the start from wherever.
You can rent a car easily in Flagstaff, Phoenix, or Las Vegas - these are the three main cities people fly into for visiting the Grand Canyon.
For those interested in flying to Flagstaff and then biking to the start, there are a few options. You can either fly with your bike and ride it right from the airport, or you can ship it to one of the many bike shops in Flagstaff (my favorites are Flagstaff Bike Revolution and Absolute Bikes).
There are five main options for biking from Flagstaff to the Grand Canyon.
Flag to Capes Connector (dirt roads and multi-use paths - goes to the South Rim)
Capes Connectors (dirt, paved, or hiking - go from the South Rim to the North Rim)
The Arizona Trail (singletrack)
The Western Wildlands Route (singletrack and dirt roads)
Grand Canyon Connector (paved)
I've designed the Flag to Capes Connector as a fast, gravel and dirt forest-road based approach. The Flag to Capes Connector provides a direct route for bikepackers looking to arrive at the South Rim of the Capes of Canyon by plane and bike from Flagstaff, AZ instead of by car. From there, you'll need to use the Capes Connectors to get to the North Rim. More information on the Flag to Capes Connector can found under the Ride with GPS link and GPX below.
23. Parking
The Arizona Trail: Murray Lake Trailhead is the official start and end for the North Rim Capes of the Canyon. This location has a pit toilet and informational sign on the AZT. This trailhead is about 0.25 miles down an unpaved 2WD-accessible road from paved Highway 67.
There are two parking options if you are looking to leave a vehicle for the duration of your ride.
PARKING OPTION 1: AZT Murray Lake Trailhead
The Arizona Trail Murray Lake Trailhead contains several parking spots for long-term parking. Parking is not visible from the highway due to the woods which will keep your car better out-of-sight from the main drive. There are also many spots further along the dirt road past the TH where you can park your car in the forest if you want/need to. I like to contact the USFS to let them know I'll be parking for a while at a trailhead; they won't promise anything, but it's good peace-of-mind in case of an issue. If you want to do the same, reach out to the North Kaibab Ranger District.
PARKING OPTION 2: Jacob Lake Inn
Jacob Lake Inn (which you passed on your way to the start) has graciously agreed to allow bikepackers to park vehicles on their property. There is no fee to park, and you are able to leave your vehicle at Jacob Lake Inn for however long you need; you’ll just need to provide the date you plan to finish and pick your vehicle back up. Reach out before your trip to confirm parking will be available (928-643-7232, jacob@jacoblake.com). When you arrive, head to the front desk to fill out a slip with your vehicle information and signature. Have your intended finish-date ready. After signing, the front desk clerk will let you know where to park your vehicle. If you are part of a group bringing more than 10 vehicles, you will need to let them know at least 4 days in advance so they can confirm with their managers. Give them big thanks for this opportunity!
If you plan to leave your car at Jacob Lake Inn, expect to add about 6.7 miles of additional riding to both the start and end of the route (plus 650 feet of gain to begin and 650 feet of loss to finish). Ride the shoulder of HWY 67 to connect Jacob Lake Inn and the Arizona Trail Murray Lake Trailhead.
24. Additional Important Information
Hunting Season:
Starts in September and goes through December. The Kaibab National Forest on the North Rim is considered one of the best mule deer hunting areas in the United States. Hunting season is a big deal here and the forest will be filled with hunters looking for deer and bison. Expect to see more trucks, backcountry campers, ATVs, and individuals on foot. WEAR ORANGE and make yourself visible as you ride. Be smart and be seen during hunting season. Wildlife Tanks may have more hunters scoping them out.
Black Bears:
There are black bears which means you need to properly store your food at night using a bear-aware method.
ATVs:
ATVs frequently use House Rock Valley Road/BLM 1065. Expect mild intermittent washboard along sections of the road and some dust from passing vehicles. Outside of here, ATVs are much more rare across the Kaibab Plateau, although you will see them. However, I have found drivers are pretty respectful, will check on you/offer you water, and give you space when passing.
Dark Skies:
Grand Canyon National Park is an International Dark Sky Park. This means that you can expect to have anywhere between Bortle Class 1 - 3 night skies overhead (even better night viewing during a new moon). The Bortle Class Scale is used to rate night skies on their clarity and lack of light pollution. A Bortle Class 1 is the darkest possible and there are several locations along these routes where, should you camp, you will have this level of darkness. Here, night skies will be virtually unimpeded by artificial light. You can use the following sites to explore more:
Bugs:
Mosquitoes and biting flies can be abundant on this route in the forest valleys and drainages where moisture and standing water collect. This will be especially true in the summer and early fall, especially if precipitation has been plentiful.
Fences:
There may be "cowboy fences" on this route which consist of barbed wire wrapped around vertical wooden branches that are strung across roads. They can be opened by removing a loop of wire on one side. Most importantly, leave fences as you found them; re-close them if they were closed.
Hantavirus and Plague:
Bubonic plague and hantavirus are frequent enough amongst the rodent population that you should avoid their saliva, feces, urine, and direct bodily contact. Be careful when entering old cabins and caves where droppings are plentiful and ventilation is limited. These are prime areas for possible contraction of these diseases.
25. Route Finishers
If you thru-rode, section-rode, or partially-rode the route, head to the link below to complete a Route Finshers' survey and see who has ridden the route.
26. Other Routes in the Area
There are several other routes located in the area for those interested in checking them out:
27. Acknowledgements
I'd like to thank Janna, Kate, and Dan for their time riding, scouting, and helping me network within Grand Canyon National Park. For sharing beta from his own scouting trips and discussing water sources in the area, I'd like to thank Kurt Refsnider. I'd like to thank Matthew Jenkins for sharing ideas for crossing the Kaibab Plateau and Emily Hansen for information on Dog Point. I'd like to give a huge shoutout to Rebekka Anderson of Erosion Studio for her fantastic artwork creating the route logo. For his thoughts and guidance on Indigenous perspectives of the Living Landscape, I'd like to thank Jack Pongyesva of the Intertribal Centennial Conversations Group and Grand Canyon Trust. Finally, I'd like to thank Bikepacking Roots for showcasing the Capes of the Canyon under their Community Routes Project (CRoP).
28. Social Media and Route Updates
29. Stickers
Route Logo Stickers for the Capes of the Canyon are available at the Google Form below.
These are 3" x 3.4" vinyl matte stickers that feature the route logo of a California Condor flying over Shoshone Point on the South Rim with a loaded bikepacking rig facing the Grand Canyon. The artwork was designed by Rebekka Anderson of Erosion Studio.
These are USD $3.50 per sticker (limit 3 per single mailing address envelope). If sending these internationally, it may cost a bit more just to help me cover the cost of mailing them (and I'll can reach out to you for that). Payment options and more information can be found at the Google Form for ordering below:
